Golden Bay Revisited

While in the Golden Bay area

The Tasman region is famous for its year-round sunshine, national parks, and a large creative community of working artists. While participating in “Golden Bay Revisited”, why not add a few days before or after?

Nelson Orienteering Club members have been asked to share their tips for visitors to Mohua, also known as Golden Bay.

The only way to reach Golden Bay by car is the scenic road journey over the windy Tākaka Hill. Canaan Downs South, which is located off this road on the Motueka side, is the location of the ‘Middle’ on the first day of the event. Richard Greatrex, controller for OY5, emphasises the need to allow plenty of time to get up and over the Tākaka Hill, and to “enjoy the sweeping turns of the road”! One very practical tip from Julian Maclaren: “Don’t feed your kids ice cream before driving over this hill!”

Golden Bay’s best spots

Golden Bay has some of the most remote, wild, and excellent spots in New Zealand. The western coast is full of long, windswept beaches, vast dunes, extensive wetland areas, massive tidal estuaries, and rocky outcrops that seem to belong on another planet.

• Whārariki is the most accessible of the West Coast beaches, a wild, beautiful place where waves and wind have created massive rock and dune formations, and where a large NZ fur seal colony resides – hands down the favourite beach of NOC members . The beach can be reached by a twenty minute walk across farmland from an unsealed road. Wharariki Beach is famous for its epic sunsets, and for the drama of the Archway Islands jutting up from the waves just off the coast – a beautiful destination after completing the ‘Long’. While there anyway, also visit nearby Cape Farewell, to view not only the cliffs, archways and seals, but also the fence for the new sanctuary for the re-introduction of Pakaha fluttering shearwater, thanks in the main to a local business and volunteers.
• Further down this western area is the Kahurangi National Park. In addition to the Heaphy Track, one of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the Kahurangi is full of hiking trails, huts and some of New Zealand’s very best backcountry areas. If you have time, maybe visit the Sylvester Lakes area, as recommended by Dale McDonald. In addition to Kahurangi, Julian Maclaren recommends visiting the Cobb Valley, “due to the very traversable wilderness that allows for unlimited off-track options”.
• Less wild, but still beautiful beaches are Pohara, Tata Beach, and Michael Croxford’s recommendation of “… the beach in front of Milnthorpe… as the bush spills over onto the sand.” Exploring the Golden Bay coastline of pristine, quiet bays by kayak is pure bliss. The arboretum was planted almost exclusively by one local over a period spanning fifty years.
• Te Waikoropupū Springs (better known as Pupu Springs) are the largest freshwater springs in New Zealand, and Sally Lattimore recommends a visit. The springs are located near Takaka, and are a ‘wahi tapu’ (sacred place) to the local Maori tribe. A kilometre loop walk through the forest around the spring takes around 45 minutes to a platform jutting out over the water.
• Recommended walks are:
  • Wainui Fall walks, recommended by Sally Lattimore.
  • Visiting The Grove Scenic Reserve: beautiful nikau vegetation set amongst naturally sculptured limestone boulders and cliffs.
  • The short but intriguing Labyrinth Rocks Park walk.
  • The newly renovated Pupu Hydro Walkway: a historic hydro station and entertaining water race walk glued onto a hillside with patches of beautiful bush. The best route is anti-clockwise.
  • Fossil Point (1 hour return) from Triangle Flat, Farewell Spit.
  • A favourite of event coordinator Annemarie Hogenbirk is the Takaka Hill Walkway, just before the summit of the Takaka Hill on the Motueka side, with stunning views over Golden Bay and Kahurangi National Park.
• For the more adventurous among you, Nathan Fa’avea promotes canyoning Campbell Creek, or trail running at Puponga, at the base of Farewell Spit. Rock climbers are well served with Paines Ford and Pohara, followed by a (very) cold dip. If you are into mountain biking, how about doing the famous Rameka Track from Canaan Downs to near Takaka, as recommended by Maggi Salmon and Calum Coombs. Local Richard English recommends visiting unique Raiwhiti Cave: “… Caving experience definitely not required; just enough fitness to take on the steep 30 minutes uphill part of the walk”. Rawhiti Cave is considered ‘geological eye candy’ and a two-hour return walk will take you to the most diverse limestone entrance and twilight zone flora of any cave in New Zealand, adorned with green and pink plants, moss, algae and stunning phytokarst formations. Golden Bay local Fleur Murray adds: “For the more adventurous and those staying on with spare days… Knuckle Hill to Kaituna Forks track on the West Coast (6-8hrs) or the Kaituna trapline to Kaituna Forks track (5-6hrs). Best to swap keys with someone as one end is a 90-minute drive from Takaka!”
• Most people explore Abel Tasman National Park from the Marahau side. As a result, the last section of the Abel Tasman Coast Track, from Totara Hill (which can be accessed by car from the Golden Bay side) to Wainui gets fewer visitors.
• Tākaka, the main town in Golden Bay, has a bohemian, artistic vibe with many colourful murals. Along the main drag, you’ll find art galleries, small shops selling locally crafted jewellery and ceramics, and hippie clothing stores.

Dine like the locals

If there’s one thing you’ll find in Golden Bay, it is good, hearty food made with local produce, combined with a laid-back dining experience:

• In Tākaka, top favourite among NOC-ers is the Dangerous Kitchen, both for their great coffee, selection of goodies and great pizzas (closed on Sunday and Monday). In addition, Michael Croxford recommends the Wholemeal Café for a great start of the day with coffee and cake or Roots Bar in Tākaka for a solid burger.
• When in Pohara, Dale Mthe the cDonald recommends Takaka Infusion Street Life Café, for “yummy treats and coffee”.
• The Mussel Inn, located on the way to Collingwood, is a favourite among locals like Richard English, who describes it as “quirky with a good selection of beers” and boasting a relaxed vibe. The pub is basic and cosy, with a simple and delicious menu.
• Nathan Fa’avae’s go-to destination is the Courthouse Café in Collingwood, while Richard Greatrex recommends the MAD Café & Gallery a few metres further along, for its “nice range of well-flavoured dishes”.
• If you enjoy fresh fish and catch it yourself, a visit to Anatoki Salmon Fishing and Café (open every day 10AM-4PM) is highly recommended by Riley Croxford located about 15 minutes from Takaka. Here you can catch your own salmon and have it smoked on the spot. Or you could just relax over a salmon platter or pizza, overlooking the rearing areas and ponds.
• One of Richard English’s favourite destinations is Molly B’s Café and Bar at Pohara, “a great place for a meal, snack or drink“. Phone reservations (03 525 7678) for evening meals are strongly recommended as this is a popular venue.
• The supermarket hours are 8 am- 7 pm. There are public toilets and showers opposite the supermarket.